Belay Devices & Descenders
There are a great many belay devices on the market and to the uninitiated it may be difficult to decide which one or type to buy. Probably the best way to tackle the decision making process is to break things down into a few basic groupings. To help this it would be best to identify what type of climbing you do or plan to do.
If all your climbing is at an indoor wall and / or sport climbing (two situations where you would normally use single ropes and not be carrying your belay device up a route with you) then a device like the Petzl Grigri or Edelrid Eddy could provide a practical ‘auto locking’ solution – both handle single ropes only and have auto locking function – though both require correct usage to work safely. These two devices are popular choices (though quite expensive) – the simpler belay ‘plate’ type devices are also very effective and can offer a more affordable solution - though of course (most) do not have self locking functionality and require an attentive well trained belayer (a prerequisite for safe enjoyable climbing) These devices are available in versions that can handle one ‘single’ rope or (more commonly) double ropes and single ropes.
If you also (or exclusively) climb outdoors single and / or multi pitch traditional climbing it is more likely that you will be using double ropes and the possibility of needing to abseil using your belay device is more likely – couple this with the need to carry the device up the route with you means that it has to be light weight and compact. Belay devices like Black Diamonds ATC, the DMM Bug and more traditionally designed Zero G ZBD all meet these requirements. If however a little more ‘grab’ or control is required (people new to climbing or possibly where there is some significant differential in the weight’s of belayer and leader) then devices with ‘grooved friction channels’ – designed to channel and constrict the rope a little will be more effective – the Black Diamond ATC –XP, Camp Lotus and Zero G wedge G are examples.
For very long multi pitch routes, mountaineering and in guiding situations the need to move as quickly as possible can be essential – some times there is a need to bring two seconds up simultaneously – often coupled with ‘direct belaying’ practices – here a device like the Petzl Reverso 3 provides this functionality where in ‘guide’ mode it will self lock. This device will also work very well in ‘standard’ mode where it behaves very like an ATC –XP or Lotus.
This is only a guide to the main types of belay devices and is not meant to be comprehensive. One thing is certain – there is no substitute for proper training and on going ‘attentiveness’ when it comes to belaying.
